
❖ ኢትዮጵያ፤ በትግራይ የሰላም ካቴድራል | የፍራንክፈርተር ሩንድሻው (FR) የጀርመን ዕለታዊ ጋዜጣ (ከጀርመንኛው የተተረጎመ)
👉 ገብርኤል 😇 ማርያም 👉 ኡራኤል 👉 ጊዮርጊስ 👉 ተክለ ሐይማኖት 👉 መርቆርዮስ 👉 ዮሴፍ 👉 መድኃኔ ዓለም
- “በአውሮፓ ብዙም የማይታወቅ ነገር አለ፡ እሱም፤ የጀርመን ጎሣዎች ገና ዛፎችንና ኮረብታዎችን ሲያመልኩ በዚህኛው የአፍሪካ ክፍል ግን ክርስትና ተስፋፍቶ ነበር።“
- “ካህኑ ኪዳይ ትንሽ ካሰቡ በኋላ፤ ‘እግዚአብሔር የሚቀጣው ግለሰቦችን ብቻ ሳይሆን ማህበረሰቡንም ጭምር ነው ፤ በተለይ ማህበረሰቡ ኃጢአት በሠራ ጊዜ። በትግራይም ያለው ሁኔታ ያ ነው ሲሉ ካህኑ አክለውም ህዝቡ ዋሽተው ሰረቁ፣ ልጃገረዶች በጣም አጭር ቀሚስ ለብሰው ነበር፣ ወጣቶቹም በጣም በፈንጠዝያና በዳንኪራ ይጨፍራሉ።‘ ነገር ግን የኤርትራ ወታደሮች የፈጸሙትን አረመኔያዊ ድርጊት ሰበብ ማቅረብ አይፈልጉምም፤ ዋና አዛዣቸውን ርዕሰ መስተዳድር ኢሳያስ አፈወርቂን “የዲያብሎስ አባት ብሎ ይጠሯቸዋል።“
- “ከሰሃራ በስተደቡብ የሚገኘው አንጋፋው የክርስቲያን ገዳም ደብረ ዳሞ በኤርትራ የጦር ጀቶች ቦንብ ተመታ። አማሮች የፈረዳሹም ቅዱስ ቂርቆስ ቤተ ክርስቲያንን አቃጥለዋል – በርካታ ቅርሶች ላይ ጉዳት ደርሷል። የኢትዮጵያ ወታደሮች ከአቡነ ታዴዎስ ገዳም ጥንታዊ የብራና ጽሑፎችን ሰርቀዋል፣ በህዳር 2020 ቅድስት የሆነችውን አክሱምን ከተማ በያዙ ጊዜ ከኤርትራ የመጡት ጓዶቻቸው በርካታ ካህናትን ጨምሮ ከ400 በላይ ህይወታቸውን አጥተዋል። የአምልኮ ቦታዎችም በእርስ በርስ ጦርነቱ ተዘርፈዋል።“
- በትንሹ እስከ ፬፻/ 400 የሚደርሱ አብያተ ክርስቲያናት እና ገዳማት ተጎድተዋል።
- “ዓለም አቀፍ ድርጅቶች በእርስ በርስ ጦርነት ወቅት የተፈጸሙትን ስፍር ቁጥር የሌላቸውን የሰብአዊ መብት ወንጀሎች በማጣራት ላይ ባሉበት ወቅት፣ ለአምልኮ ቦታዎች ጥፋትና ዘረፋ ትኩረት የሚሰጥ የለም ማለት ይቻላል ሲሉ በአዲስ አበባ የፀጥታ ጥናት ተቋም ባልደረባ ታደሰ ሲሚ መተኪያ “እነዚህም የጦር ወንጀሎች ናቸው”” ብለዋል።“
- ከሃዲዎቹ ክርስቲያኖች በአስደናቂው ተራራማ በሆነው የጋርዓልታ ዓለም ውስጥ እንኳን ሙሉ በሙሉ ደህና ሊሆኑ አይችሉም፡ በመጀመሪያ “በኦርቶዶክስ” ክርስቲያን ባልንጀሮቻቸው ይሰደዱ ነበር፣ በኋላም አዲስ አምልኮ ከነበረውና የእስልምና ነቢይ መሀመድ ተከታዮች ጋር ተፋጠጡ!።
- ለካህኑ፣ አውራጃው ከቅድስት አክሱም ከተማ ጋር፣ የእስራኤላውያን የቃል ኪዳኑ ታቦት በዚያ ይቀመጥ ነበር ተብሎ የሚታሰበው፣ ጥንታውያን ዓለት አብያተ ክርስቲያናት የብራና ጽሑፎች የያዙት የኦርቶዶክስ እምነት ማዕከል ነው፡– “እውነት በዚህ ካልተረፈች፤ ሌላ የትም ልትኖር አትችልም። በመጨረሻ መንገዳችንን ስንጨርስ ንስር በእኛ እና በሁሉን ቻይ እግዚአብሔር አምላክ መካከል ይከባል።
- “What is hardly known in Europe: Christianity was already widespread in this part of Africa when the Germanic tribes were still worshipping trees and hills.”
- Priest Kiday thinks for a while and then says that God punishes not only individuals but also the community – especially when the collective has sinned. That was certainly the case in Tigray, the priest adds: the people lied and stole, the girls wore skirts that were far too short, the young men danced too exuberantly. However, he does not want to justify the barbaric actions of the Eritrean soldiers: He calls their commander-in-chief, head of state Isaias Afwerki, “the father of the devil.
- Debre Dammo, the oldest Christian monastery south of the Sahara, was bombed by Eritrean military jets. Amharic militiamen set fire to the Feredashum St. Kirkos church – numerous artifacts were damaged. Ethiopian soldiers stole ancient manuscripts from the Abune Tadewos monastery, and when they captured the holy city of Axum in November 2020, their comrades from Eritrea inflicted a massacre with well over 400 dead, including several priests. Places of worship also looted in civil war.
- Up to 400 churches and monasteries were at least partially damaged.
- While international organizations are investigating the countless human rights crimes committed during the civil war, virtually no one is paying attention to the destruction and looting of places of worship, complains Tadesse Simie Metekia of the Institute for Security Studies in Addis Ababa: “These are also war crimes.”
- The apostate Christians could never be completely safe, even in the bizarre mountain world of Gar’alta: First they were persecuted by their “orthodox” fellow Christians, and later they were confronted with a new sect, the followers of the Islamic prophet Mohammed.
- For the priest, the province with the Holy City of Axum, the Ark of the Covenant of the Israelites supposedly kept there, the ancient rock churches with their manuscripts, is the center of the Orthodox faith: “If the truth doesn’t survive here, nowhere will.” When we finally make our way back, an eagle circles between the Almighty and us.
Those who want to worship the Almighty in the embattled Ethiopian province climb daringly to 2600 meters above sea level to a spectacular church in the middle of the rock. Our correspondent has dared the climb – and looked into secular abysses
The Almighty doesn’t exactly make things easy for his guests. After an hour’s climb up one of the craggy sandstone formations that rise into the sky like gigantic teeth in the center of Ethiopia’s Tigray Province, we reach a rock face that is impossible to get past except by climbing. Kiday Yohannes has wisely brought a rope with him to secure his foreign guest – he himself climbs ahead unsecured. The Orthodox clergyman knows every crevice where his hands or feet can find a foothold; after all, he has walked the path thousands of times – up to three times a day during the peak tourist season. However, the Orthodox priest has not seen any tourists for more than two years. Instead, he has seen war, countless soldiers and death many times.
Whoever dares to climb up here must not be sick of heights.
For climbing we have to take off our shoes, because the ground we enter is sacred. Even after the rock face, we continue uphill over boulders and tumbling gullies. Only at an altitude of about 2600 meters do we reach a ridge between two rocky outcrops on which there is a small brick building: the baptismal and reception room of the “Abuna Yemata” church, explains priest Kiday. On both sides of the ridge, the descent is hundreds of meters: not a place for the faint-hearted or those who suffer from altitude sickness – but a place where the Orthodox believers of the region have been seeking their God for 1600 years. In the “most dangerous church in the world,” according to a travel website.
The last 20 meters to a hole in the rock face are the most frightening. On the right, the sandstone massif rises vertically into the air; on the left, the abyss yawns – more than 300 meters deep. A ledge that serves as a path is barely 50 centimeters wide at its narrowest point. Priest Kiday takes his despondent foreign flock by the hand. In the entire history of the place of worship, no person has ever fallen here, he reassures, “God looks out for his faithful.” Legend has it that pilgrims who actually fell to the depths were blown back up the path by a miraculous wind.
❖ You can hardly get any closer to God 😇
When you finally reach the hole in the rock face, you think you are ready for anything – and yet the sight leaves you speechless. In the semi-darkness, a small cathedral accurately hewn out of the rock emerges – with Romanesque vaulted arches, columns and two implied domes. The walls and ceilings of the roughly 30-square-meter room are painted with luminous frescoes, mainly portraits of biblical and ecclesiastical figures, and the floor is carpeted. A bent branch fork serves as a lectern for the priest; a stack of ancient books made of sheepskin lies beneath it. There is a smell of incense – and as Kiday Yohannes quietly intones a hymn, the heavens seem to open. This is as close as a mortal can get to the Almighty.
The (almost) intrepid author.
Like over 120 other churches in Tigray, Abuna Yemata was hewn out of the rock. Unesco wants to declare the monolithic houses of worship a World Heritage Site. They are spread over three “Sacred Landscapes,” of which the Gar’alta region is the most spectacular; this is also where the oldest of the rock churches are located. What is hardly known in Europe: Christianity was already widespread in this part of Africa when the Germanic tribes were still worshipping trees and hills. King Esana, who ruled in the holy city of Axum, located almost 200 kilometers northwest of Abuna Yemata, had already declared the Christian faith the state religion in the 4th century.
Christians were also persecuted in Tigray
Nevertheless, the young Christians in Tigray could not really feel safe. Besides the proximity to God, the security aspect was also responsible for the construction of their churches at dizzying heights – an advantage of which Priest Kiday can still sing a song today. When Eritrean and Ethiopian soldiers invaded Tigray a good two years ago, the people of the village of Guh, located at the foot of the rocky fangs, sought refuge in the mountains. Priest Kiday retreated to the Abune Yemeta place of worship with two dozen worshippers. His 26-year-old wife Berhan holed up in a nearby cave with their two children – just in case the invaders did not back down from an attack on the place of worship.
The clergyman Kiday Yohannes reads in old books made of sheepskin.
Soldiers did indeed fire on the rock church several times, Kiday says, but they never hit it. And the Eritrean invaders were reluctant to attack on foot in view of the adverse terrain.
Other places of worship were less fortunate. Debre Dammo, the oldest Christian monastery south of the Sahara, was bombed by Eritrean military jets. Amharic militiamen set fire to the Feredashum St. Kirkos church – numerous artifacts were damaged. Ethiopian soldiers stole ancient manuscripts from the Abune Tadewos monastery, and when they captured the holy city of Axum in November 2020, their comrades from Eritrea inflicted a massacre with well over 400 dead, including several priests.
Places of worship also looted in civil war.
Up to 400 churches and monasteries were at least partially damaged, according to a damage report by philologist Hagos Abrha Abay, a researcher at the University of Hamburg. On auction platforms such as Ebay, old manuscripts and cult objects from Tigray were suddenly offered for sale at ridiculous prices, reports the Ethiopian: handwritten and illustrated texts of inestimable value changed hands for a few hundred euros.
While international organizations are investigating the countless human rights crimes committed during the civil war, virtually no one is paying attention to the destruction and looting of places of worship, complains Tadesse Simie Metekia of the Institute for Security Studies in Addis Ababa: “These are also war crimes.”
On May 7, 2021, Eritrean soldiers entered the village of Guh at the foot of the Rock Teeth and shot at anything that moved. According to farmer Kasa Girmai, 19 people were killed in the massacre, including nine women and seven children, the youngest less than a week old. The 50-year-old managed to escape with his family into the mountains. However, they had to leave his 78-year-old mother behind: The soldiers would not harm the old woman, Kasa told himself. But the Eritrean fighters dragged the woman out of her house, dragged her to a nearby stream and shot her there.
Even today, human bones can be found in the middle of the landscape, says priest Kiday: “The hyenas have spread the bones all over the country.” The priest buried the victims of the massacre in Guh in the valley about 300 meters directly below the entrance to the rock church – as if they were the first ones that the miraculous wind did not blow back up again. One of the graves is barely half a meter long: there lies buried the seven-day-old child. How could the Almighty allow the innocent little creature to be torn from the world right away?
Priest Kiday thinks for a while and then says that God punishes not only individuals but also the community – especially when the collective has sinned. That was certainly the case in Tigray, the priest adds: the people lied and stole, the girls wore skirts that were far too short, the young men danced too exuberantly. However, he does not want to justify the barbaric actions of the Eritrean soldiers: He calls their commander-in-chief, head of state Isaias Afwerki, “the father of the devil.
One cannot accuse Priest Kisay of exuberant dancing. When he intones a mournful melody in the mini-cathedral of Abuna Yemata between heaven and earth, he stamps his feet softly in time and accompanies his singing with a rattle. This is how he did it for the whole of last night, when he celebrated the first Christmas mass after the war again in the rock church for six hours with a good 50 faithful.
The Ethiopian multi-ethnic state threatens to be completely divided
Looking down on the congregation from the ceiling was Abuna Yemata: one of the nine saints of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church who had fled to Tigray from the Middle East in the fifth century. They had been at odds with the rest of the church over the nature of Christ – only God or God and man in one person? – with the rest of the church. Father Yemata hewed the place of worship out of the rock with his own hands, and his nephew Binyam painted the images, Kisay says. These have never had to be restored in their 1400-year history.
The apostate Christians could never be completely safe, even in the bizarre mountain world of Gar’alta: First they were persecuted by their “orthodox” fellow Christians, and later they were confronted with a new sect, the followers of the Islamic prophet Mohammed. Even though Ethiopia was never truly colonized, the Ethiopian kingdom did not come to rest even in recent history. And today, the multi-ethnic Ethiopian state is in danger of being completely pulverized by ethnic and political tensions.
Hundreds of thousands killed during the civil war
Several hundred thousand people are said to have fallen victim to the two-year civil war between the Tigray and the government army, and the province has been set back several decades. And already the next smoldering conflict is escalating-between the majority Oromo people and the government under “Nobel Peace Prize winner” Abiy Ahmed.
Ethiopia’s church seems powerless in the face of the turmoil. When Eritrea seceded from Ethiopia in 1993 and war broke out six years later between the two neighbors over the border demarcation in a useless piece of semi-desert, the community of Christians also split – into an Eritrean and an Ethiopian Orthodox Church. During the recent civil war, Orthodox believers outside Tigray did not lift a finger to stem the bloodshed or at least condemn it, laments philologist Hagos in Hamburg: Many parishes in Amhara Province, which is particularly hostile to Tigray, even donated money for the war.
A sacred place for the hope of peace
Kisay Yohannes closes his eyes and mumbles a prayer in Ge’ez: the sacred language of his church sounds like ancient Hebrew and is understood only by clergy. He prayed for Tigray’s independence, the priest says afterwards: and that an Orthodox Church for Tigray would soon emerge from the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. For the priest, the province with the Holy City of Axum, the Ark of the Covenant of the Israelites supposedly kept there, the ancient rock churches with their manuscripts, is the center of the Orthodox faith: “If the truth doesn’t survive here, nowhere will.” When we finally make our way back, an eagle circles between the Almighty and us.
👉 Courtesy: The Frankfurter Rundschau, Germany
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